Since the last post, I made a two day trip to get to Frenchglen, via Crystal Crane Hot Springs and the Pete French round barn.
The hot springs were pretty developed, campground and cabins and such, but it was a place to pitch the tent with both the springs to soak in, and a shower. I've actually done much better for finding showers than I expected, but they are always welcome.
Heading south from Burns the one big tell-tale that I was nearing the landscape I was seeking was the smell. At one point, it was like hitting a wall of sagebrush aroma. I was also getting in to the marshlands, with more birds than I could count or identify. They have "enjoyed" the same wet spring here that we have on the western side of the state so things are greener and wetter than I have ever seen them over here.
The round barn is quite a sight. The only remaining one of three such structures French had built on the land he controlled, it is 100' in diameter, with a 60' diameter inner structure of stables and living quarters, allowing a 20' wide exercise track within the barn to keep the horses in condition over the winter. The roof is built like an umbrella, with a massive central post and rafters radiating out to the circumference of the barn. Remember, this is high desert country, so all the timber had to be hauled in for the barn, before the time of log trucks and Lowe's home delivery.
My only disappointment with the barn was that the time I finally get to see it, the water level from the nearby lake had risen to the point that the barn was knee deep is rather unappealing mosquito breeding ground.
From there I took the northern portion of the diamond loop road, through the diamond craters. Visually very impressive, it was definitely not something I would want to hike through. Massive, buckled lava ridges broken up by deep fissures and the scattered crater. I walked just far enough off the road to get some pictures of some of the more impressive features, but between the random cracks and holes, I was leery of stepping into some hidden opening and either breaking a leg or finding something dwelling in said hole that would take offense to my intrusion.
By this time I was hoping to see antelope and mustangs in addition to all the birds. Instead, I was surprised to watch a mink dart across the road in front of the bike, carrying what looked like a salamander in his mouth. Antelope sitings were not to come until much later, and I still haven't found the mustangs.
Friday afternoon brought me to Frenchglen, a full week ahead of when I needed to arrive. John Ross, the state parks concessionaire who has operated the hotel for 20 years is a great host. He does not allow camping on the hotel grounds to anyone arriving by car or motorcycle, but allows bicyclists to stay free. Use of the hotel shower or his laundry facilities is a $5.00 charge, not bad considering most campgrounds charge $15 for a tent site.
Supper at the hotel is by reservation only, one family-style seating and you get what John is serving that night. I was lucky enough to get a spot at the table Friday for Prime Rib, salad, roasted potatoes, vegetables au gratin and home made rolls, with chocolate cake a la mode for desert. I was a little embarrassed when I realized how full I had heaped my plate, but there was plenty of food, nobody got shorted, and there was enough that I didn't feel too bad about taking seconds.
The family style seating encourages one to get to know the other guests, and arriving in the middle of nowhere on a bicycle made me a bit of a novelty, so there was no shortage of dinner table conversation. I was seated with a retired couple who volunteer with BLM doing archaeological surveys, and spend August as the caretakers/hosts at the Riddle Brother's Ranch, one of the historical sites nearby. Fascinating folks to listen to, they had plenty of local knowledge and suggestions of sites I could ride to.
So, now time for some exploration. More stories to come, and eventually I will find a modern enough computer to upload some pictures!
No comments:
Post a Comment